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Tutorial
The
anatomy of a picture:
Learn
how this image
was rendered?
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Equipment:
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5x4
inch view camera suited to extreme wide-angle perspective with front
tilt
-
Fuji
QuickLoadTM film holder loaded with ISO 50 Velvia film
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Sekonic
spot lightmeter
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Small
18% grey card
-
Schneider
wide-angle lens
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Hard
ND graduated filter
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Marginal
warm up filter
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Heavy
duty Benbo tripod
-
Cable
release
-
Stop
watch
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Horseman 8x loupe
-
Ground glass/ fresnel focusing screen
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Focusing bellows/dark cloth
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| Image
attributes:
-
Colour and good composition, particularly balance
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Foreground interest anchors scene
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High resolution file from huge transparency |
| Brisbane Water Nat Park, NSW © Mark Lucock |
Colourful
rock
pools above Somersby Falls at sunset, Brisbane Water National Park, NSW
(Aust). This image was taken on an Ebony RSW 5”x4” wooden view camera
with leather bellows and Schneider 80mm wide-angle lens. I used a Lee 0.9 ND
graduated filter to enhance the sunset colours (i.e. to hold back the
light in the upper third of the image and balance the exposure with the
foreground). The Velvia sheet film was then scanned professionally using
a Hasselblad/Imacon virtual drum scanner, cleaned up and minimally
enhanced in Photoshop at a size suitable for extremely large format
printing at 300dpi (500+Mb).
The
secret to success with this and similar images in which foreground
features are used to anchor the overall scene is based on the ability of
view cameras to tilt forward and alter the plane of focus in a manner
that extends depth of field and hence sharpness from near to far.
The
trickiest aspect of large format film photography is without question
how to focus the camera. There are several methods that one could use,
although the one I tend to favour goes as follows: Set the aperture to
its widest setting (plus one stop on my 80mm wide-angle lens so the
image isn’t too soft) and use front axial tilt, as opposed to front
base or rear tilts (available on some cameras, but not the RSW) to
control the plane of focus. This involves focusing the camera rail using
the most distant subject within the field of view. I establish critical
focus on the fresnel/ground glass screen using a Horseman 8x loupe (bear
in mind the image I see is inverted). I then use forward axial tilt
until the foreground is crisply in focus. Then I use the camera rails to
refocus on a distant subject. I repeat these iterations a few times
(sometimes more than a few times) until both near and far subjects are
in focus to my satisfaction. I then often take a quick look at the
tripod borne camera to visualise whether the three planes (film, lens
and subject) intersect in a way that is described by the Scheimpflug
rule*. Before exposing the film, I then shut down the aperture to at
least f22. This further increases depth of field along the new plane of
focus generated by front tilt. This is quite important, since it allows
tall components in a scene to remain within the field of focus. Having
said this, very tall trees or buildings can extend out of the plane of
focus and appear soft in the final image, so extreme care is required in
your preliminary assessment
of a scene. The next job is to insert the film holder, cock the shutter,
withdraw the film emulsion from its light tight sheath, meter and
remeter till satisfied, set the appropriate shutter and aperture, and
fire the shutter - phew, digital photography is certainly much easier!
*The
Scheimpflug rule states that subject, lens board and film planes must
either be parallel to one another, or meet at a common intersection
along their planar axes
Clearly,
a lot goes into the making of large format photographic art. Due to the
weight of the equipment and the complexity of the set up,
the effort involved in making this kind of image
ensures that long before you even trip the shutter, you have both
invested a lot of time, and thought deeply about the picture you are
chasing.
This
is picture making - not picture taking. It may be a laboriously slow
process, but it is still the ultimate way to render your landscapes as
photographic art. If you want to know more about this and other
techniques in nature and landscape photography, consider buying one of
my books.
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