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Tutorial
Creating
a sense of movement in a landscape:
Learn
how this image
was rendered?
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Equipment:
-
5x4
inch view camera suited to extreme wide-angle perspective with front
tilt
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Fuji
QuickLoadTM film holder loaded with ISO 50 Velvia film
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Sekonic
spot lightmeter
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Small
18% grey card
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Rodenstock wide-angle lens
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2.5 stop concentric ND graduated filter
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Heavy
duty Benbo tripod
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Cable
release
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Stop
watch
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Horseman 8x loupe
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Ground glass/ fresnel focusing screen
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Focusing bellows/dark cloth
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Umbrella
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| Image
attributes:
-
Sense of movement in water provides a powerful dynamic to image
-
Front tilt ensured near to far sharpness, a very dense 2.5 stop
concentric ND grad filter, extremely small aperture (f32), slow
ISO 50 film, and overcast/rainy day all conspired to yield the
very long shutter speed (8 seconds) needed to create this sense of
movement. Dull overcast days are best for this kind of photography
- sunny days are the very worst due to high contrast
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High resolution file from huge transparency |
| Stainforth
Force, River Ribble, Yorkshire Dales National Park, UK © Mark Lucock |
Stainforth is a tiny hamlet about
two miles north of Settle on the south-western flanks of the Yorkshire Dales
National Park. It is therefore at the epicentre of some fine photogenic
scenery: 3 miles to the south east is beautiful Scalebor Force, to the east
is Malham with its cove, Gordale Scar and Janets Foss, while to the north
you have the magnificent limestone furrow that is Ribblesdale. Stainforth
itself stands on an ancient trade route between York and Lancaster. The
historical route passes right next to Stainforth Force as it crosses the
River Ribble over a 17th century pack horse bridge which is now
maintained by the National Trust.
Shooting
on
my 5x4” Ebony SV45TE view camera, I decided to use my 75mm
Rodenstock Grandagon N
wide-angle lens. Of critical importance was my decision to use a matched
2.5 stop concentric ND graduated filter
for this particular subject. What this
means is that I now set my spot meter to around f64 – meter some green
foliage – and read off the corresponding shutter speed. I then use this
speed, but drop the aperture by 2.5 stops from say f64.5 to f32. Indeed, the
shot here was f32 at 8 seconds on Velvia. This procedure is only done after
the difficulties of removing the filter to achieve critical focus, and then
replacing it to actually expose a sheet of film - the only approach to take
on such a dull day.
After 5 or 6 sheets you start to get
into the swing of this rather convoluted operational protocol.
Focusing itself, is really quite easy as the image projected with this lens
is superbly crisp, and snaps into focus. Without the concentric ND filter
on, the hot spot on the ground glass is really pronounced, in this case made
all the worse by the brightness of the foaming cascade which fully occupied
the centre of the frame. Without the filter, the image would unquestionably
have had an unacceptable exposure gradient radiating from the centre
outwards. Concentric ND
graduated filters
are essential when using medium and large format extreme wide-angle lenses
such as this; otherwise clear light fall off occurs at the edge of the
frame.
Focusing
and exposing the image involves the same process as explained in the
tutorial relating to Somersby Falls in Brisbane Water
National Park (Aust). Set the aperture to
a wide aperture and use front or rear tilt to
control the plane of focus. This involves focusing the camera rail using
the most distant subject within the field of view. I establish critical
focus on the fresnel/ground glass screen using a Horseman 8x loupe (bear
in mind the image I see is inverted). I then use forward tilt
until the foreground is crisply in focus. Then I use the camera rails to
refocus on a distant subject. I repeat these iterations several times until both near and far subjects are
in focus to my satisfaction. I then often take a quick look at the
tripod borne camera to visualise whether the three planes (film, lens
and subject) intersect in a way that is described by the Scheimpflug
rule*. Before exposing the film, I then shut down the aperture to at
least f22 (in this case f32). This further increases depth of field along the new plane of
focus generated by front tilt. This is quite important, since it allows
tall components in a scene to remain within the field of focus. Having
said this, very tall trees can extend out of the plane of
focus and appear soft in the final image, so extreme care is required in
your preliminary assessment
of a scene. The next job is to insert the film holder, cock the shutter,
withdraw the Velvia film emulsion from its light tight sheath, meter and
remeter till satisfied, set the appropriate shutter and aperture, and
fire the shutter - see why good nature and landscape photographic art
has a value attached to it. Clearly,
a lot goes into the making of large format photographic art. Due to the
weight of the equipment (particularly the heavy tripod) and the complexity of the set up,
the effort involved in making this kind of image
ensures that long before you even trip the shutter, you have both
invested a lot of time, and thought deeply about the picture you are
chasing.
This
is picture making - not picture taking. It may be a laboriously slow
process, but it is still the ultimate way to render your landscapes as
photographic art. If you want to know more about this and other
techniques in nature and landscape photography, consider buying one of
my books.
*The
Scheimpflug rule states that subject, lens board and film planes must
either be parallel to one another, or meet at a common intersection
along their planar axes
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